A Day in Lipari and a tour of the Aeolian Islands

Lipari... it was the one port on our 2011 Legendary Cruise that I was not familiar with.  Located in the Tyrrhenian Sea, Lipari is the largest of the Aeolian Islands with a population of a little over 11,000 permanent residents.  Popular with tourists, the May-September population of this volcanic archipelago swells to over 20,000 with its beaches becoming popular destinations.

The 5th day of our itinerary began before the sun rose while on our way to the port of Lipari,  a scenic cruise through these beautiful Aeolian Islands welcomed the day in style.

As our ship entered the archipelago chain at sunrise, this was an entry not to be missed.  Greeted by a dazzling pink sky which in turn changed to hues of gold, orange and yellow, my camera shutter happily clicked away for hours capturing image after stunning image as we made our way through the volcanic area.

The erupting volcano, Vulcano.  Part of the Aeolian Islands

Sailing past multiple volcanic rock formations as well as an actually erupting volcano, aptly named Vulcano, the sights went beyond brilliant.  After our morning "tour", the Captain thoughtfully tucked the ship directly under the St. Bartholomew Cathedral and we settled in for breakfast with a view before heading into town.

Breakfast with a veiw

Making our day a leisurely one, we left our ship, the Seabourn Legend, with no direction in mind, and immediately loved the sights of the little fishing village.  Fishermen mending their nets greeted us at the port, and cobble stoned streets led from the port area into the main town, itself called Lipari.  Shops, cafes and restaurants lined the wending streets providing endless places to stop, and the local men and women just opening their doors greeted us with smiles as we wandered by.

Streets of Lipari

Numerous shops filled with locally made pottery had my eye immediately, and Lipari ended up filling the rest of the empty space in my nearly full suitcase.  Jewelery made from igneous stones from the island also found its way into my bag as well as around my neck, and I'm still enjoying my morning espresso from my little blue ceramic Lipari cup.

Ready for some shopping in Lipari

Making our way to the St. Bartholomew Cathedral, I expected just another church as we had already viewed so many on the trip.  This Cathedral though, took my breath away.  Originally built around 1100, the Cathedral was the home of Benedictine Monks for many years before it was burned along with much of the town during a Turk invasion.   Rebuilt in the second half of the sixteenth century, the original cloister was converted into a graveyard, and eventually, after a major earthquake it was covered and forgotten.

Original cloister rediscovered

While the remaining Cathedral has undergone numerous renovations over the last few centuries, the original cloister was rediscovered more recently around 1978 and has been restored to its original beauty.  The center garden, enclosed by stone pillars has become a much visited destination for those visiting the Cathedral.

Stepping over rice strewn cobblestones to enter the brilliant white and blue Cathedral itself, the colorful ceiling frescoes depicting biblical scenes date back to the 18th century and had us sighing with awe.  Lit beautifully from the side windows allowing so much light to enter the structure, the church is bright and filled with color.  Dedicated to St. Bartholomew, the Cathedral is said to have been the resting place of the Saint after his casket somehow washed up on Lipari's shores.

Making our way around the grounds, the views of the blue ocean below and the surrounding town provided stunning vistas and views of the island.

Occasional ruins can be seen around the grounds, and an archaeological museum is nearby.

As our time ashore drew to a close, Lipari's charming streets and friendly people left me wishing I had more time.  Definitely on my list of places to return to, my day in Lipari and our views of the Aeolian Islands remains unforgettable.

Seabourn Spirit - Venice and Adriatic Gems

On Seabourn, nearly anything is possible... all-suite accommodations, fine dining, champagne at every turn, and a staff anticipating desires you didn't even know you had.  Spending 10 nights sailing the 200 passenger Seabourn Spirit on a round trip Venice to Venice voyage in August of 2012, Liv Life enjoyed living life while sailing the Adriatic Sea with ports of call including Kotor, Corfu, Dubrovnik, Rovinj, Split, and Brindisi.

Living Life in Dubrovnik, Croatia

Watching the world of travel open to my teenage children became an unforgettable experience.  From the canals of Venice to the ancient walls of Dubrovnik, the world became real as they not only visited, but touched history.  My 16-year old son, somewhat of a history buff, rattled off facts ranging from war to architecture as we toured buildings older than our country, and Liv quickly learned that shopping is actually more appealing without a mall.  Returning to our floating home away from home after spending the day port brought a special indulgence, and a touch of luxury to our transportation.

An all-inclusive line, Seabourn spoils you from the moment you arrive.  Greeted at registration with smiles and bubbling glasses of champagne, our family found ourselves situated in our suites in mere moments.  Room attendants somehow know you've arrived and appear quickly with champagne refreshers and light canapes, setting a trend of excellence which never dimmed during our entire voyage.  With a staff ratio of about 1.4 to 1, the Spirit workforce spoiled our weary, much in need of vacation, family to no end.

Happy Birthday Liv!

Our first evening in the dining room found the meal finishing with a surprise cake for Liv's 13th birthday and a crew of happy waiters singing their hearts out to my smiling birthday girl.  The next morning she was greeted by different waiters at breakfast who called her (as well as the rest of us) by name, and asked if she had enjoyed her special dinner.  A trip to the spa for a birthday pedicure brought a celebratory "mocktail", the fruity/coconutty Miami Vice, and a gushing exclamation from my newly teenaged daughter of, "Mom!  I love Seabourn!!!"

The Spirit, affectionately known as one of the "Little Sisters" (larger ships carry up to 450 guests), offers two featured dining areas with several alternate dining choices available.  The Restaurant on Deck 3 offers a full service restaurant for all meals of the day in a fine dining venue.

Mommy's happy place.... The Veranda Café

My personal favorite dining spot for breakfast and lunch, however, has always been the Veranda Café.  Affectionately known to me as, "Mommy's happy place", the Veranda offers outside seating with a more casual atmosphere.  Service however, remains as attentive as the main dining room.

For off hours, one has the option of the Sky Grill, afternoon Tea in the Observation Lounge, or the ever present 24-hour in suite service.  In the evening, The Veranda transforms into Restaurant 2, serving themed small plate tasting menus with extraordinary views of the passing sea in the fresh outside air.

Taking advantage of "order whatever you want from the menu", my Filet Mignon loving girl did just that.  Cooked to perfection filets arrived at our table night after night, while my son's choices tended to include meals he'd never tried including Lobster, Veal, and his favorite Duck Egg Rolls.

Innovative fresh salads, soups and appetizers began each evening meal accompanied by wines from around the world.  While simple entrées of Grilled Salmon, Filet Mignon, or basic chicken met our every standard, notable standouts included the Twice Baked Goat Cheese Souffle with Roasted Sweet Garlic Cream, Oven Baked Duck Spring Rolls with Chili Spiced Cucumber Salad, Oven Roasted Capon "Saltimbocca", and a simple Three Pea Salad.

Desserts ranged from Crepes Suzette to Creme Brulee to Sorbet to plain 'ole Chocolate Cake.  For myself though, I found taking advantage of a not-so-American offering, the Cheese Plate bringing various cheese tastes along with sweet chutney and sugared or flavored nuts, to be the ideal finale to a wonderful meal.

Twice Baked Goat Cheese Souffle with Roasted Sweet Garlic Cream

Joining the sea day Galley Tour, my husband and I received a behind-the-scenes peek at the food production areas as well as some of the staff who make the magic happen.  With particular interest in the baking area, my appliance envy grew at the sight of giant, sparkling mixers near the rows of trays laden with rising bread right next to a wall of waiting hot ovens.

Every loaf of bread, pastry or croissant served on the ship is made right there in that kitchen by just a few staff members as the rest of us receive our beauty sleep.  Seabourn's signature breads sticks remain one of my favorite offerings, and a never ending production brings some 1,000+ sticks per day to the table.  Might I also note how much I enjoyed the flavored butter offering of the day featuring various herb butters which only served to enhance those addictive little bread sticks.

Galley Tour

Moving through the kitchen along with Executive Chef Martin Kitzing, one can't help but be amazed at the precise organization which keeps the food and all of our special requests arriving to our tables timely and almost always correctly.  Prep areas are arranged ahead of time, and large vats of steaming broths bubble away all afternoon in preparation for the guest's orders.  I can only imagine the beehive of activity that occurs nightly as nearly every guest is treated to an extraordinary dining experience which the Seabourn staff makes look easy.

Dinner is served...

Taking a moment with the Chef after the tour, I explained my son's dairy free diet, asking if any of the breads were made dairy free.  Chef Martin took the time to make suggestions along with taking my suite number.  Later in the day as I made my way past reception, the Restaurant Maître d happened to be crossing at the same time, and calling me by name, he mentioned he was just on his way to my suite with a printed list of dairy free foods served at all meals.  In addition, he explained that Chef Martin would be altering some of the recipes, and that tomorrow this additional list of foods would also be dairy free.  You see... on Seabourn nearly anything is possible.  

Days later we met up with Chef Martin once again in Split, Croatia while joining his "Shopping with the Chef" tour.  Leading us to the local fish market, Chef Martin navigated the fish laden tables while selecting ultra fresh ingredients for our lunch and dinner.  The market itself proved to be a treat for us grocery store shopping Americans, but the haggling for price was an exciting experience in itself.

Shopping with the Chef - Split, Croatia

A ship guest from Majorca, Spain followed the Chef closely, and on his second stop she stepped in.  Throwing a hand into the face of the vendor while bellowing, "No!!!  Too much money!" she proceeded to haggle with the vendor, and eventually got the final price somewhat reduced.  A resounding cheer went up from our crowd as she and the vendor smiled, obviously enjoying the act of haggling as much as we all enjoyed watching, and we moved on to the next table of selections along with the next round of haggling.

*Not listed on the excursion itinerary for your voyage, check with the Chef himself or reception for dates and times of the enjoyable Shopping With the Chef tour on your Seabourn voyage.

Marina Day - Triluke Bay, Croatia

Triluke Bay, a small bay off the coast of Croatia, became the kids 2nd favorite day of our voyage (right after our day in Corfu).  With the back end of the Spirit becoming a fun-filled marina, the kids spent the day kayaking, paddle boating and being pulled about the bay on a banana boat.  While they didn't have time to take in every activity, the ship also offers wind surfing, water skiing, swimming, and sailing.

With guest of all ages taking advantage of the marina activities, my advice is to sign up early for the events that interest you as the day seems to fill up quickly.  Clear Adriatic waters, light breezes and balmy temps had this day right up there for Liv as, "One of the best ever!".

A favorite evening for the crew and guests alike followed our day in Dubrovnik.  As the passengers enjoyed tours of the ancient historic city walls, the crew put together a fabulous BBQ dinner.  Set outside on the main decks, tables laid with linens and silver became the meeting place for new friends.  Tables laden with fish, meats, gigantic Nigerian shrimp, and endless desserts tempted us as we watched the historic walls of Dubrovnik glow as the sun set into the warm Adriatic sea.

Deck BBQ

Dubrovnik Sunset...

Within days, the kids also came to love and look forward to my happy place, the Veranda Cafe, for breakfast.  Offering cooked to order items as well as a buffet featuring those breads the bakers work so hard to bake all night, we also chose from fresh fruits, yogurts, cereals, meats and cheeses.  Always filling my plate just a little too full, I never found myself wanting for anything.

Nino!

Most special about our morning though, was Nino.  Yes, Nino had us living the Seabourn advertisement.  The part that reads, "Our award-winning staff is driven only by their sincere desire to please, and with a smile that comes from the heart."  and, "whose knack for anticipating what you might like borders on the clairvoyant."  Nino exemplifies Seabourn, and personally, I have never been treated to better service which indeed came from the heart.

Greeting us each morning with, "Good morning Mr. and Mrs. Kelly!  Your coffee orders are being placed, Liv, your tea is on the way, and young Mr. Kelly... I have your eggs and 6 sausages ready to go."  Note we mentioned only once that we were creatures of habit, and from then on, after verification that we didn't want to change anything, our meals, drinks and treats arrived without us saying a word.  Occasionally we received surprises in addition to our "usual", like a much welcomed Mimosa, or for Liv, a 2nd donut of her favorite kind simply appearing by her side with Nino's happy smile and an "e voila!".

Spirit Staff - never without a smile

Yes, we were ultimately spoiled.  The staff of the Spirit worked together like nothing I have seen before.  Complimentary and courteous to each other as well as to the guests, they formed a team that any company should be proud to have.  I have sailed Seabourn in the past, and while I have always been treated well, this trip was truly "living the advertisement".  From the Captain on down, I received smiles at every turn, an extra towel by the pool, a chilled glass of champagne as I read my book in the late afternoon, and Nino's exemplary "E Voila!" in combination with a heartfelt smile at every meal.

Lunch on our last day had me remembering a tidbit I'd read on Cruise Critic regarding Seabourn's incredible Onion Rings.  I had read that the precious rings were not on the menu though, and did require a bit of notice for preparation.  As this was our last day, I thought I'd ask anyway, knowing my request may not be possible.  The server confirmed just that, and since we were actually outside of the Veranda operating hours the chef might not be able to meet my request.

"Not a problem," I responded, "This will leave me something to come back to Seabourn for.". 

Without much further thought, we continued our meal along with a recap of our day wandering the alleys and canals of Venice.  My husband, looking over my shoulder, noted the servers talking, and mentioned he didn't think my onion ring request was going to happen.  Sure enough, our server approached again, mentioning that indeed, the chef could not make the rings now, and he was sorry.

A minute or so passed, and again my husband continued to look behind me.  Confused at his ear to ear grin, seconds later I felt a small tap on my shoulder followed by a flourished, "E Voila!", and surrounded by our special Nino and the rest of our friendly staff, a plate piled high with some of the best onion rings I've ever had descended to the center of our table.

You see... on Seabourn nearly anything is possible.

E Voila!

New friends from around the world... miss you all!!

The Seabourn Legend... Legendary Indeed!

The Seabourn Legend

With four action packed walking, touring, eating, sipping and photographing days under our belt in Rome, the thought of leisurely enjoying our awaiting cruise ship, the Seabourn Legend, was beyond enticing.  After all, our anniversary vacation was meant to provide some much needed rest and relaxation time which had thus far been excitedly filled with quite the opposite.

With Rome at our backs, our driver, Mauro, transported us from the hectic paced Eternal City through slower paced suburbs, on to grassy hills and fields and finally to the smooth blue Mediterranean.  Arriving at the port of Civitavecchia our next mode of transportation, The Legend, awaited.  White gloved attendants whisked away our luggage and within moments my husband and I found ourselves with glasses of champagne in hand while checking in onboard the ship.

In a matter of minutes, another white gloved gentleman led us to our veranda cabin which was to be our home for the next seven nights.  Bidding us "Bon Voyage", the attendant departed as we toasted each other with the remaining champagne in our glasses just before popping the cork of the chilled bottle which had been so patiently awaiting our arrival.

Opening the veranda door we gazed at the ocean that would soon be ours and grinning, we toasted again as our luggage arrived along with Sonja, our room attendant, who brought indeed more champagne and a smoked salmon appetizer.  Yes... this was the rest and relaxation we were looking for!

Easy to get used to, the aptly described 200 guest mega-yacht provides a most comfortable atmosphere along with touches of luxury at every turn - sophisticated yet simple.  From the delicious food, to the friendly staff to the thoughtful itinerary with special touches (Captain Anderssen took us past the erupting Stromboli for our viewing pleasure), sinking into vacation-mode was no problem at all.  More importantly, some of the "usual" touches from larger cruise ships (queues, loud announcements, soda cards, signing for drinks, sexy leg and belly flop contests, etc) were noticeably absent.

Twice Baked Goat Cheese Souffle - I'll take two!!!

Most evenings began meeting new friends aft, at the Club Bar, as we chatted and sipped a cocktail before moving on to the Dining Room, aptly named "The Restaurant".  Different nightly menus provided exceptional dining choices suiting nearly all tastes.  First course soups received rave reviews over and over again and the entrees and of course the desserts never failed to please.  Favorites for me included the Pan Sauteed Salmon, cooked to perfection and served with Cauliflower puree, capers and radocchio, Chateaubriand cooked perfectly to my requested medium-rare, and the Twice Baked Goat Cheese Souffle with Roasted Sweet Garlic Cream that literally melted in my mouth.

Sauteed Salmon with Cauliflower Puree

Restaurant 2, a second aptly named dining option, provided a somewhat different dining experience.  Reservations required and only serving some 30 guest a night, Restaurant 2 brings a special dining menu to each evening.  Our two visits to this venue brought incredible meals, the first being an Asian affair starting with a Chinese Hot & Sour Chicken Soup which my husband actually dubbed the best soup he's ever had.  Ginger Glazed Portobellos with Crisp Onion Rings and Orange Dressing, and Pan Roasted Marinated Cod, Stir Fried Vegetable & Egg Noodles with Miso rounded out the menu where we found ourselves enjoying our meal so much we were the last to leave.  I might add that the Passion-Fruit Creme Brulee Lime Sorbet was positively addicting.  Additional Restaurant 2 offerings throughout the voyage included a Tapas-like tasting evening (the Apricot Beignets were to die for!), Indian Spice Market, Surf N' Turf, and Steak House.  Definitely worth a visit if you are onboard.

Breakfast with a view of the beautiful cliffs of Lipari

Breakfast for us was most preferable on the back of the ship, outside at the Veranda Cafe with stunning views of the Mediterranean vistas and ports.  After placing our cooked to order and beverage requests each morning with our server, the always energetic and smiling Boro, we then headed inside to peruse the fresh fruit, yogurt, cheeses and meats, and bread offerings.  Memorable indeed... I miss my breakfast with a view.

On a side note, I was interested to learn that all of the incredible breads and pastries were baked onboard the Legend.  Apparently one man begins baking bread just as the rest of the chefs are retiring for the evening and he bakes the entire night through providing all of the bread needs for the following day.  Rolls, sliced breads, and bread sticks were always available in addition to muffins, croissants, and other offerings.  Pastries, cakes, cookies, and innumerable other sweet confections were also available leaving one with more choices than one can possibly try.  Pastries and such were provided by a wonderful team of talented pastry chefs who had my heart from moment one.

I couldn't decide... so I chose both the White Chocolate Mousse with Raspberry Sauce AND the Coconut Cream Pie...

Fueled and ready to go, a new port awaited our exploration each morning by 8 AM.  Most ports were simple enough to wander through on foot as the Legend docked or anchored nearly downtown in the small ports of Sorrento, Taormina, Trapani, Valetta, Lipari and Gaeta.  Transportation to town was provided by the ship if walking was not possible, and in addition excursions to various tours and activities including pizza making and olive oil tasting were available for purchase.  Preferring to keep our days mostly unplanned after our full speed ahead days in Rome, we chose to forgo most excursions in place of a more relaxed pace spent wandering about the local ports and tasting the local fare.

While lunch was served onboard the Legend, taking advantage of the local fare and cafes in most ports was our preferred choice.  Enjoying fresh Italian Pizzas, Cannoli, Cappuccinos, and Salads had us gushing with pleasure and considering a full time move to Italy.

Continuing our new wine with lunch practice, a return to the ship for a nice nap before partaking in the daily afternoon tea in the lounge became a habit.  Then it was off to our pre-dinner cocktail where Ben, my favorite bartender, mixed our drinks and had us on our way to dinner before heading to bed and so we could start all over again.

Early in our voyage, Captain Erik Anderssen hosted a Gala where he introduced the ship's officers and many of the staff, obviously a close knit and cohesive group.  Taking a moment to address the guests, Captain Anderssen read the following poem which touched my heart and seemed to sum up our vacation and in general, our way to Liv Life:

Decide to be happy today,

to live with what is yours,

your family, your business, your job.

If you can't have what you like,

perhaps you can like what you have.

Just for today, be kind, cheerful, agreeable,

responsive, caring and understanding.

Be your best.  Dress your best.

Talk softly, look at the bright side of things.

Praise people for what they do,

Don't criticize them for what they can not do.

If someone does something stupid,

Forgive and forget.

After all, it's just one day.

Who knows,

It might turn out to be a nice day.

  

With memories of the Legend still swirling in our heads, returning to real life has had its difficult moments.  We simply can't thank Captain Anderssen and his crew enough for seeing to our every request and for pampering this tired mom and dad for a week. 

Bon Voyage!

Next Stop Sorrento, where we live Limoncello Dreams...